专利摘要:
The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition in the form of an aerosol containing: i) an oily phase comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one volatile oil and one or more antiperspirant active agents chosen from aluminum salts and and / or zirconium, and one or more non-water-soluble and sequential film-forming ethylenic polymers comprising a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 85 ° C. and a second block having a (Tg) less than or equal to 20 ° C, and ii) one or more propellants; said oily phase containing less than 15% by weight, and even more preferably, less than 12% by weight of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane based on the total weight of the oils. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration, a use and an aerosol device implementing said cosmetic composition.
公开号:FR3015260A1
申请号:FR1363008
申请日:2013-12-19
公开日:2015-06-26
发明作者:Odile Aubrun;Xavier Jalenques;Arnaud Laurence Sebillotte
申请人:LOreal SA;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous antiperspirant composition in the form of an aerosol comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular an aerosol-containing antiperspirant composition comprising an antiperspirant active ingredient and a non-water-soluble film-forming ethylene polymer. cosmetically acceptable, i) an oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil, one or more antiperspirant active agents chosen from aluminum and / or zirconium salts, one or more non-water-soluble, film-forming ethylenic polymers and (ii) one or several propellants. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration, and possibly body odors related to human perspiration, including axillary odors, comprising the application to a skin surface of said composition. The present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition and an aerosol device implementing it.
[0002] The armpits as well as certain other parts of the body are generally the place of several discomforts which can come directly or not from the phenomena of perspiration. These phenomena often lead to uncomfortable and uncomfortable sensations which are mainly due to the presence of perspiration resulting from perspiration which can, in some cases, make the skin moist and wet clothes, especially in the armpits or back, leaving visible traces. Finally, during its evaporation, sweat can also leave salts and / or proteins on the surface of the skin, thus creating whitish traces on clothing. Such discomforts are observed even in the case of moderate perspiration. In the field of cosmetics, it is thus well known to use, in topical application, antiperspirant products containing substances which have the effect of limiting or even suppressing the flow of sweat in order to remedy the problems mentioned above. These products are generally available in the form of roll-on, sticks, aerosol or spray. The antiperspirant substances generally consist of aluminum salts, such as aluminum chloride and aluminum hydroxyhalides, or complexes of aluminum and zirconium. These substances help reduce the flow of sweat. However, cosmetic compositions based on these antiperspirant substances generally tend to transfer to clothing leaving visible and unsightly traces.
[0003] In order to overcome this drawback, antiperspirant compositions containing oils having a refractive index close to those of the aluminum salts have been developed. Such oils have the role of reducing the whitish appearance of the antiperspirant compositions at the time of their deposition on the skin and, therefore, make the traces on less white clothes. The oils used are generally esters of fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate. However, such antiperspirant compositions have the disadvantage of imparting to the skin, especially in the armpits, an oily sensation that is unpleasant for the user, and do not make it possible to limit the transfer of antiperspirant products from the skin to the skin. clothes. There is therefore a real need to use antiperspirant cosmetic compositions in the form of an aerosol, which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above, that is to say compositions which are transferred as little as possible to the tissues and which maintain an antiperspirant efficacy. The Applicant has therefore surprisingly discovered that by applying to the skin an anhydrous composition in the form of an aerosol containing an oily phase comprising one or more volatile oils, one or more antiperspirant active agents preferably chosen from aluminum and / or zirconium, one or more water-soluble and non-water-soluble ethylenic polymers as described below and one or more propellants, it was possible to minimize the transfer problems of the antiperspirant compositions on the tissues while maintaining antiperspirant efficacy; said oily phase containing less than 15% by weight, and even more preferably, less than 12% by weight of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane based on the total weight of the oils. Thus, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition in the form of an aerosol according to the invention leads to formulas that transfer less to textiles, which generates fewer visible and unsightly marks on clothing, especially on clothes having a dark color, compared to a conventional antiperspirant composition or an antiperspirant composition containing oils.
[0004] In particular, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition makes it possible to significantly reduce whitish traces on clothing, in particular on clothing having a dark color. Moreover, the cosmetic composition in aerosol form according to the invention maintains a good antiperspirant efficacy.
[0005] Thus, the use of water-insoluble and sequential ethylenic polymers as described below in an antiperspirant composition based on aluminum salts makes it possible to reduce the transfer of visible and unsightly traces on clothing without impairing the effectiveness. aluminum salts.
[0006] In addition, the non-water soluble and sequenced ethylene polymers employed are compatible with the aluminum salts because they do not form a macroscopically visible precipitate within the composition. The present invention therefore particularly relates to an anhydrous composition in the form of an aerosol containing: i) an oily phase comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: one or more volatile oils, one or more antiperspirant active agents chosen preferably from the aluminum and / or zirconium salts, and one or more non-water-soluble and sequential film-forming ethylenic polymers comprising a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 85 ° C. and a second block having a Tg) less than or equal to 20 ° C, and ii) one or more propellants; said oily phase preferably containing less than 15% by weight and even more preferably less than 12% by weight of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane based on the total weight of the oils. The cosmetic composition according to the invention has both good anti-transfer and antiperspirant properties. Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration, and possibly human body odors related to human perspiration, consisting in applying to the surface of a human keratin material an effective quantity of the cosmetic composition such as previously described. The method according to the invention is particularly advantageous for treating perspiration in the armpits because the composition used does not provide an unpleasant oily sensation and transfers less on clothing while effectively treating perspiration. The invention also relates to the use of said composition for cosmetically treating human perspiration. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for the administration of a composition topically. A physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without color, or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the topical route of administration. In the present case where the composition is intended to be administered topically, that is to say by surface application of the keratin material in question, such a medium is in particular considered to be physiologically acceptable when it does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user. By "anhydrous" is meant in the sense of the present invention, a liquid phase having a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight by weight. relative to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that it is more particularly bound water, as the water of crystallization of salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention. By "human keratin materials" is meant the skin (body, face, eye area), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips, mucous membranes. By "non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane" is meant a polydimethylsiloxane compound also called "dimethicone" remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure strictly less than 10 -3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa). By "polydimethylsiloxane" or "dimethicone" is meant any organosiloxane polymer having the following structure: Si "Final composition" means the combination of the liquid phase and the propellant.
[0007] Antiperspirant Active By "antiperspirant active" is meant a salt which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat, reducing the sensation on the skin of moisture associated with human sweat or masking the human sweat.
[0008] As indicated above, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more antiperspirant active agents preferably chosen from aluminum and / or zirconium salts. Among the aluminum and / or zirconium salts, mention may be made of aluminum chlorohydrate, chlorohydroxyl aluminum, aluminum chlorohydrox PEG, aluminum chlorohydrex PG, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex PEG, dichlorohydrex PG aluminum, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex aluminum PEG, sesquichlorohydrex aluminum PG, alum salts, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate and more particularly aluminum chlorohydrate in the form activated or not marketed by the company REHEIS under the name MICRODRY ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE® or by the company GUILINI CHEMIE under the name ALOXICOLL PF 40. Aluminum salts and zirconium are for example that marketed by the company REHEIS under the name REACH AZP-908-SUF®, aluminum salt "activated For example that sold by REHEIS under the name REACH 103 or by WESTWOOD under the name WESTCHLOR 200. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises aluminum chlorohydrate as an antiperspirant active ingredient. The antiperspirant aluminum salts may be present in the final composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 2 to 20% and more particularly between 3 and 15%. by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. Ethylenic Polymer As indicated above, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more non-water-soluble, film-forming film-forming ethylenic polymers comprising a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 85 ° C. and a second block having a lower (Tg) or equal to 20 ° C. By "ethylenic polymer" is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers comprising one or more ethylenic unsaturations. By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials, such as the skin, the hair, eyelashes, nails, especially the skin. By "non-water-soluble polymer" is meant that the polymer is not soluble, as defined below. "Soluble polymer" means that the polymer dissolves in water or in a 50/50 mixture by volume of water and ethanol, or a mixture of water and isopropanol, without any change in pH. , at a solids content of 5% by weight, at room temperature (25 ° C, 1 atm.). It is considered that the polymer is soluble if it does not form a precipitate or agglomerate visible to the naked eye, when it is dissolved, and that it therefore leads to a clear solution. Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is a polymer with a linear or grafted structure. In contrast, a non-linear or non-grafted polymer is, for example, a star-shaped or cross-linked polymer. The block ethylenic polymer according to the invention is preferably prepared exclusively from monofunctional monomers. This means that the sequenced ethylenic polymer does not contain multifunctional monomers which make it possible to break the linearity of a polymer in order to obtain a polymer, in particular a crosslinked polymer, as a function of the level of multifunctional monomer. Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is a non-elastomeric polymer, that is to say a polymer which, when subjected to a stress aimed at stretching it (for example by 30% relative to its initial length ), does not return to a length substantially identical to its initial length when the stress ceases. More specifically, a non-elastomeric polymer denotes a polymer having an instantaneous recovery Ri <50% and a delayed recovery R2h <70% after having undergone an elongation of 30%. Preferably, R 1 is <30% and R 2h is <50%. The non-elastomeric nature of the polymer can be determined according to the following protocol: A polymer film is prepared by pouring a solution of the polymer into a teflon matrix and then dried for 7 days in a controlled atmosphere at 23 ± 5 ° C. and 50 ± 10% relative humidity. A film of approximately 100 μm in thickness is then obtained in which rectangular specimens (for example, with a punch) are cut with a width of 15 mm and a length of 80 mm. These specimens in the form of specimens are subjected to tensile stress with the aid of a device marketed under the Zwick reference under the same conditions of temperature and humidity as for drying. The specimens are stretched at a speed of 50 mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 mm, which corresponds to the initial length (10) of the specimen.
[0009] The instantaneous recovery R 1 is determined as follows: the specimen is stretched by 30% (emax), that is to say about 0.3 times its initial length (10); the stress is released by imposing a return speed equal to the tensile speed, ie 50 mm / min, and the residual elongation of the test piece is measured in percentage after returning to zero stress (ci). The instantaneous recovery Ri (in%) is determined by the following formula: Ri = ((emax - ci) / emax) x 100 To determine the delayed recovery, the residual elongation of the specimen is measured in percentage (c2h), two hours after return to the null stress. The delayed recovery R2h (in%) is given by the formula below: R 2h = ((emax - e2h) / emax) x 100 The polymer according to the present invention is a block polymer, comprising a first block having a higher Tg or equal to 85 ° C and a second sequence having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C.
[0010] It is specified that the terms "first" and "second" sequences do not condition the order of said sequences (or blocks) in the polymer structure. Preferably, the polymer comprises two distinct sequences (diblock) or preferably three distinct sequences (triblocks).
[0011] Preferably, said first and second sequences are incompatible with each other. By "sequences incompatible with each other", it is meant that the mixture formed of the polymer corresponding to the first block and the polymer corresponding to the second block, is not miscible in the majority polymerization solvent by weight of the polymer. sequenced, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa), for a content of the polymer mixture greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture (polymers and solvent), it being understood that i) said polymers are present in the mixture in a content such that the respective weight ratio ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, and that ii) each of the polymers corresponding to the first and second blocks has an average molecular weight (in weight or in number) equal to that of the sequenced polymer ± 15%. In the case of a mixture of polymerization solvents, assuming two or more solvents present, said polymer mixture is immiscible in at least one of them. Of course, in the case of a polymerization carried out in a single solvent, the latter is the majority solvent. The glass transition temperatures (Tg) indicated are, unless indicated otherwise, theoretical Tg determined from the theoretical Tg of the constituent monomers of each of the sequences, which can be found in a reference manual such as the Polymer Handbook, 4th ed. (Brandrup, Immergut, Grulke), 1999, John Wiley, according to the following relation, called Fox's Law: 1 = L () Tg, Tgi wi being the mass fraction of the monomer i in the sequence under consideration and Tgi being the transition temperature vitreous of the homopolymer of the monomer i (expressed in Kelvin). The polymer according to the invention therefore comprises a block having a Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C, for example between 85 and 175 ° C, preferably between 90 and 150 ° C, in particular between 100 and 130 ° C. The polymer according to the invention also comprises a block having a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example between -100 and 20 ° C, preferably between -80 and 15 ° C, in particular between -60 and 10 ° vs. Preferably, the Tg sequence greater than or equal to 85 ° C represents 50 to 90% by weight, preferably 60 to 80% by weight, of the weight of the final polymer.
[0012] Preferably, the sequence of Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C represents 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 10 to 40% by weight, of the weight of the final polymer. Preferably, said first and second sequences are interconnected by an intermediate segment comprising at least one constituent monomer of said first block and at least one constituent monomer of said second block. The intermediate segment is preferably a sequence, or block, comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer; it can allow to "compatibilize" these sequences. Said intermediate segment or block is preferably a random copolymer. Preferably, said intermediate segment or sequence is derived essentially from constituent monomers of the first sequence and the second sequence. By "essentially" is meant at least 85%, preferably at least 90%, better at 95% and even better at 100%. Preferably, said sequenced ethylenic polymer has a polydispersity index Ip greater than 2, especially between 2 and 9, preferably between 2.3 and 8, better still between 2.4 and 7. The polydispersity index Ip is equal to the ratio of the weight average mass Mw to the number average mass Mn. The weight average molar masses (Mw) and number (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (solvent THF, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector and UV). The weight average mass (Mw) of the sequenced ethylenic polymer is preferably between 35,000 and 300,000, more preferably between 45,000 and 150,000 g / mol.
[0013] The number average mass (Mn) of the block ethylenic polymer is preferably from 10,000 to 70,000, more preferably from 12,000 to 50,000 g / mol. Each block, or block, of the polymer according to the invention is derived from one type of monomer or from several different types of monomer. This means that each sequence can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, which can be random, alternating or otherwise; preferably statistical. The chemical nature and / or the amount of the monomers constituting each of the sequences can of course be chosen by those skilled in the art, on the basis of his general knowledge, to obtain sequences having the required Tg. The sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C, or first sequence, can therefore be a homopolymer or a copolymer. It preferably comprises at least one monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C.
[0014] In the case where this sequence is a homopolymer, it may be derived from a monomer such that the homopolymer prepared from this monomer has a Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C. In the case where this sequence is a copolymer, it may be derived from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration of which are chosen so that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is greater than or equal to 85 ° C. The copolymer may for example comprise monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C., for example a Tg ranging from 85 to 175 ° C., alone or as a mixture with monomers. which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg's lower than 85 ° C, preferably selected from monomers having a Tg ranging from -100 to 85 ° C. Similarly, the sequence having a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C, or second sequence, may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. It preferably comprises at least one monomer of Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C. In the case where this sequence is a homopolymer, it may be derived from a monomer such that the homopolymer prepared from this monomer has a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C.
[0015] In the case where this sequence is a copolymer, it may be derived from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration of which are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is less than or equal to 20 ° C. It may, for example, comprise monomers whose homopolymer corresponding to a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C., for example a Tg ranging from -100 ° C. to 20 ° C., alone or as a mixture with monomers whose corresponding homopolymer at a Tg above 20 ° C, preferably selected from monomers having a Tg of between 20 and 175 ° C. The monomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 85 ° C. (also called monomers with a Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C.) may be chosen from the following monomers, alone or as a mixture: methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COORi in which R1 represents a methyl or tert-butyl group; or a C6-C12 cycloalkyl group such as isobornyl; acrylates of formula CH 2 CHCH-COOR 2 in which R 2 represents a C 6 to C 12 cycloalkyl group such as isobornyl, or a tert-butyl group; the (meth) acrylamides of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -CONR7R8 or CH2 = CH-CONR7R8, in which R7 and R8, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or isopropyl group; or R7 is H and R8 is a branched C3-C5 group such as isopropyl, sec-butyl, t-butyl, 1-methylbutyl; mention may be made of N-t-butylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide and N, N-dimethylacrylamide; styrene and its derivatives, such as chlorostyrene. In particular, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, isobornyl (meth) acrylate and mixtures thereof. The monomers whose homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C. may be chosen from the following monomers, alone or as a mixture: the acrylates of formula CH 2 = CHCOOR 3, with R 3 representing a linear C 1 to C 12 alkyl group or branched, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which is (are) optionally intercalated (s) one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, said alkyl group may be further optionally substituted with one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I and F); the methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR4, with R4 representing a linear or branched C6-C18 alkyl group, in which is (are) optionally intercalated one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N and S, said alkyl group being further optionally substituted with one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I, F); vinyl esters of formula R5-00-0-CH = CH2 where R5 represents a linear or branched C4-C12 alkyl group; C4 to C12 alkyl vinyl ethers, such as butylvinylether and laurylvinylether; - C4-C12 N-alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide. Among the monomers having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C., mention may also be made of the monomers of formula (I) below, alone or as a mixture: I-12C = C / R 1 (Z). (R 2) 7 (CH 2 CH 2 O), TR 3 (I) in which: R 1 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Z is a divalent group selected from -000-, -CONH-, CONCH3-, -000-, -O-, -SO2- -00-0-00- or -CO-CH2-00-; - x is 0 or 1; - R2 is a divalent carbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 18 heteroatoms selected from 0, N, S, F, Si and P; m is 0 or 1; n is an integer between 3 and 300 inclusive; - R3 is a hydrogen atom or a carbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 20 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P. Preferably, x 1 and Z represents COO or CONH, preferably COO. In the radical R2, the heteroatom (s), when present, may be intercalated in the chain of said radical R2, or said radical R2 may be substituted by one or more groups including them such as hydroxy, amino (NH 2, NHR ' or NR'R "with R 'and R" identical or different representing a linear or branched C 1 -C 22 alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl), -CF 3, -CN, -503H or -COOH. In particular, R2 can comprise a group -O-, -N (R) -, - CO- and their combination, and especially -O-CO-O-, -CO-O-, -N (R) CO-; - O-CO-NR-, -NR-CO-NR-, with R representing H or a linear or branched C1-C22 alkyl, optionally comprising 1 to 12 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Cl, Br , Si and P. Notably R2 may be: - an alkylene radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, such as methylene, ethylene, n-propylene, isopropylene, n-butylene, isobutylene, tert-butylene, pentylene, isopentylene, n-hexylene, isohexylene, heptylene, isoheptylene, n-octylene, isooctylene, nonylene, isononylene, decylene, isodecylene, n-dodecylene, isododecylene, tridecylene, n-tetradecylene, hexadecylene, n-octadecylene, docosanylene, arachinylene; - a cycloalkylene radical having 5 to 10 carbon atoms, substituted or unsubstituted, such as cyclopentylene, cyclohexylene, cycloheptylene, cyclooctylne, cyclononylene, cyclodécylène; a phenylene radical -C6H4- (ortho, meta or para) optionally substituted with a C1-C12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 18 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P; a benzene radical -C6H4-CH2- optionally substituted with a C1-C12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 18 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P; a radical of formula -CH2-0-00-0-, CH2-CH2-0-00-0-, -CH2-00-0-, -CH2-CH2-00-0-, -CH2-O-CO -NH-, -CH2-CH2-O-CO-NH-; -CH2-NH-CO-NH-, -CH2-CH2-NH-CO-NH-; -CH2-CHOH-, -CH2-CH2-CHOH-, -CH2-CH2-CH (NH2) -, -CH2- CH (NH2) -, -CH2-CH2-CH (NHR ') -, - CH2-CH (NHR') -, -CH2-CH2-CH (NR'R ") -, -CH2-CH (NR'R) ") -, -CH2-CH2-CH2-NR'-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-O-; -CH2-CH2-CHRLO- with R 'and R "representing a linear or branched C1-C22 alkyl optionally comprising 1 to 12 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; - or a mixture of these radicals Preferably R2 may be: - an alkylene radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, especially methylene, ethylene, n-propylene, n-butylene, n-hexylene, n-octylene, n-dodecylene, n-octadecylene; optionally substituted phenylene-C6H4- (ortho, meta or para) with a C1-C12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 18 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; or - a benzylene radical -C6H4- CH 2 - optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 18 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P. Preferably, n is between 5 and 200 inclusive, and even more preferably between 6 and 120 included, or between 7 and 50 inclusive.
[0016] Preferably, R3 is a hydrogen atom; a phenyl radical optionally substituted by a C1-C12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P; a C1-C30 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C22 or even C2-C16, optionally comprising 1 to 18 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P; a C3-C12 cycloalkyl, especially C4-C8 or even C5-C6 radical, optionally comprising 1 to 18 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P. Among the radicals R3, mention may be made of methyl chains, ethyl, propyl, benzyl, ethylhexyl, lauryl, stearyl, behenyl (- (CH2) 21-CH3), and also fluorinated alkyl chains such as for example heptadecafluorooctyl sulfonyl amino ethyl CF3- (CF2) 7-502-N (C2H5) CH2-CH2; or -CH2-CH2-CN, succinimido, maleimido, mesityl, tosyl, triethoxysilane or phthalimide chains. Preferably, the monomers of formula (I) are such that: - x = 1 and Z represents COO, - m = 0, - n = 6 to 120 inclusive, - R3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom; a phenyl radical optionally substituted with a C1-C12 alkyl radical; a Ci-C30 alkyl radical, in particular Ci-C22 or even C2-C16. Preferably, the monomers of formula (I) have a molecular weight of between 300 and 5000 g / mol. Among the particularly preferred monomers of formula (I), mention may be made of: poly (ethylene glycol) (meth) acrylate in which R 1 is H or methyl; Z is COO, x = 1, m = 0 and R3 = H; methyl (poly) ethylene glycol (meth) acrylate, also known as methoxy-poly (ethylene glycol) methoxy acrylate, in which R 1 is H or methyl, Z is COO, x = 1, m = 0 and R 3 = methyl; the alkyl-poly (ethylene glycol) (meth) acrylate in which R 1 is H or methyl, Z is COO, x = 1, m = 0 and R 3 = alkyl. phenyl-poly (ethylene glycol) (meth) acrylates, also known as poly (ethylene glycol) phenyl ether (meth) acrylate, in which R 1 is H or methyl, Z is COO, x = 1, m = 0 and R3 = phenyl.
[0017] Examples of commercial monomers are: - CD 350 (methoxy-poly (ethylene glycol 350) methacrylate and CD 550 (methoxy-poly (ethylene glycol 550) methacrylate, supplied by SARTOMER Chemicals; - M9OG (methoxy methacrylate) poly (ethylene glycol (9 repeating units)) and M230G (methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylate (23 repeating units)) available from ShinNakamura Chemicals - methoxy-poly (ethylene glycol) methacrylates of average molecular weight 300 , 475 or 1100, available from Sigma-Aldrich; methoxypoly (ethylene glycol) acrylate of average molecular weight 426 available from Sigma-Aldrich; methoxy-poly (ethylene glycol) methacrylates available from LAPORTE under trade names: MPEG 350, MPEG 550, S 10W, S2OW, or Cognis under the name BISOMER - poly (ethylene glycol) monomethyl ether, mono (succinimidyl succinate) ester of average molecular weight 19 00 or 5000, from Polysciences - behenyl poly (ethylene glycol PEG-25) methacrylate, available from Rhodia under the name SIPOMER BEM; poly (ethylene glycol) phenyl ether acrylates of average molecular weights 236, 280 or 324 available from Aldrich; methoxy polyethylene glycol 5000 2- (vinyl sulfonyl) ethyl ether commercially available from Fluka; polyethylene glycol ethyl ether methacrylate available from Aldrich; polyethylene glycol methacrylates 8000, 4000, 2000 from Monomer & Polymer Dajac laboratories. - Methoxy-poly (ethylene glycol) methacrylate 2000 Norsocryl 402 Arkema; - Methoxy-poly (ethylene glycol) 5000 Norsocryl 405 methacrylate from Arkema; the poly (ethylene glycol) methyl ether acrylate of Aldrich, Mn = 454 g / mol, DP = 8-9.
[0018] In particular, among the monomers of Tg less than 20 ° C., mention may be made of alkyl acrylates, the alkyl chain of which contains from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, such as methyl acrylate. isobutyl acrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate; as well as the (meth) acrylates of poly (ethylene glycol) and the (meth) acrylates of alkyl-poly (ethylene glycol), more particularly the methacrylates of methyl-poly (ethylene glycol); and their mixtures. The polymer according to the invention may also comprise additional monomers, which may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture: ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid function, such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid and salts of these, - ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one hydroxyl group such as 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, - ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one tertiary amine functional group such as 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and salts thereof. The sequence of Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C preferably comprises at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-COOR and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR in which R, identical or different, represents a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably a C8-C12 cycloalkyl; preferably R is identical in the monomers; preferably, these monomers are acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate. The acrylate monomer and the methacrylate monomer are preferably in mass proposals of between 30:70 and 70:30, preferably between 40:60 and 60:40, in particular of the order of 50:50. The first block can be obtained exclusively from acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate, which are preferably in an acrylate / methacrylate mass ratio of between 30:70 and 70:30, preferably between 40:60 and 60:40. , in particular of the order of 50:50. The sequence of Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C preferably comprises at least one monomer chosen from, alone or as a mixture: acrylates of formula CH2 = CHCOOR3 in which R3 represents a C1-C12 unsubstituted alkyl group, linear or branched, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which is (are) optionally intercalated (s) one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S; in particular isobutyl acrylate, methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR4, in which R4 represents a linear or branched C6 to C12 unsubstituted alkyl group in which is (are) optionally intercalated ( ) one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N and S. - (meth) acrylic acid; the monomers of formula (I) preferably with x = 1 and Z = COO. Preferentially, the sequence of Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C comprises acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid. The sequenced ethylenic polymer can be obtained by radical polymerization in solution according to the following preparation method: a part of the polymerization solvent can be introduced into a suitable reactor, and the mixture is heated until the temperature which is suitable for the polymerization is reached (typically between 60.degree. and 120 ° C), - once this temperature is reached, one can add the constituent monomers of the first sequence, in the presence of a portion of the polymerization initiator, - after a time T corresponding to a rate of preferably up to 90% conversion, the constituent monomers of the second block and the other part of the initiator can be introduced, the mixture can be allowed to react for a period of time T '(in particular from 3 to 6 hours) to The end of which the mixture is brought to room temperature (25 ° C), so as to obtain the polymer in solution in the polymerization solvent. "Polymerization solvent" means a solvent, or a mixture of solvents, in particular chosen from ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, C1-C6 alcohols such as isopropanol, ethanol and alkanes. aliphatics such as isododecane and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polymerization solvent is a mixture of butyl acetate and isopropanol or isododecane.
[0019] The polymerization initiator may be chosen from organic peroxides comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2,5-dimethylhexane sold under the reference Trigonox®141 by Akzo Nobel.
[0020] The ethylenic block polymer according to the invention is preferably prepared by free radical polymerization and not by controlled or living polymerization. In particular, the polymerization is carried out in the absence of control agents, and in particular in the absence of control agent conventionally used in the living or controlled polymerization processes such as nitroxides, alkoxyamines, dithioesters, dithiocarbamates, dithiocarbonates or xanthates, trithiocarbonates, copper catalysts, for example. When present, the segment, or intermediate sequence, which connects the first and second sequences of the block polymer may result from the polymerization of at least one monomer of the first block, remaining available after the polymerization at a rate of conversion of at most 90% to form the first block, and at least one monomer of the second block, added to the reaction mixture. The formation of the second sequence is initiated when the monomers of the first sequence no longer react or become incorporated in the polymer chain either because they are all consumed or because their reactivity no longer allows them to be. Thus, the intermediate segment comprises the monomers of the first available sequence, resulting from a conversion rate of these first monomers of less than or equal to 90%, during the introduction of the monomers of the second block during the synthesis of the polymer. Among the block ethylenic polymers of the invention, use will more preferably be made of a polymer chosen from: a poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid) polymer, a random acrylic acrylate polymer, isobornyl / isobornyl methacrylate / PEG methacrylate / acrylic acid and more particularly poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid) polymer. The block ethylenic polymers according to the invention may be present in the final composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% of active material by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight and more preferably in a content of from 0.5 to 5% by weight. a content ranging from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.
[0021] Oily phase The antiperspirant composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase; which contains at least one volatile oil. Preferably, the volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils or mixtures thereof. By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0022] The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure strictly less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). ).
[0023] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably 100 to 30,000 mPa.s. Volatile oils As examples of volatile volatile hydrocarbon oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes; of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of Cognis DE10 2008 012 457. By way of examples of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having an 8 centistokes viscosity (8 10-6 m 2 / s), and in particular having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane - volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I): ## STR3 ## where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one of which several hydrogen atoms may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
[0024] Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 , 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or a ethyl group. The proportion of volatile oil (s) relative to all the oils, preferably varies from 50% to 100% by weight. Preferably, the volatile oils are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and more particularly C8-C16 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isohexadecane or linear C8-C16 alkanes, such as an undecane / tridecane mixture. Isododecane will be chosen even more particularly. According to one particular form of the invention, the oily phase further comprises at least one non-volatile oil. The non-volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0025] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils By way of example of a nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or oils oils of wheat germ, olive, sweet almond oil, palm, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant , evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, sunflower, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame , hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel , jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam or squalane; synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether and PPG-14 butyl ether; synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 at 40 carbon atoms with R1 + R2 such as for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 alcohol benzoate at C15, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-containing liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol and 2-undecyl; pentadecanol, oleic alcohol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates with a fatty chain; - fatty chain acetates; - fat chain citrates; As an example of a nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: silicone oils, such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); and their mixtures. By way of example of a nonvolatile fluorinated oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of fluorinated oils that are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in EP-A. A-847752. Preferably, the non-volatile oils will be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and more particularly hydrogenated polyisobutene oils such as Parleam®, ethers such as dicaprylylether or PPG-14 Butyl Ether, fatty acid esters such as palmitate. isopropyl, isononyl isononanoate, Cu-Cu alkylbenzoate, fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.
[0026] More preferred are fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkylbenzoate and even more particularly isopropyl palmitate. The total amount of oil (s) present in the composition of the invention is preferably in a content ranging from 20 to 90% by weight, more preferably in a content ranging from 30 to 80% by weight relative to to the total weight of the liquid phase (or juice). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid phase" or "juice" means the base of the composition without the propellant. For reasons of compatibility with the ethylene polymer of the invention, when the oily phase of the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane, the latter must contain less than 15% by weight of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane, and more preferably less than 12% by weight of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane relative to the total weight of the oils.
[0027] Additives The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from deodorant active agents, moisture-absorbing agents, lipophilic suspension agents or gelling agents, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers and agents. moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickeners or suspending agents, or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged. . Deodorant active agents According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions may contain at least one deodorant active agent in the liquid phase. The term "deodorant active" any substance capable of decreasing, hide absorb human body odor especially axillary odors. The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (®Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'- hydroxy-diphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (®Triclocarban) or 3,7,11- trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (®Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropane tetraacetic acid), 1,2 decanediol (Symclariol from Symrise); glycerine derivatives, for example Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM® from Abitec), caprylate or glycerol caprate (DERMOSOFT GMCY® and DERMOSOFT GMC® from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DGMC® from STRAETMANS) biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP® from Symrise); zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid. Deodorant actives may be odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; zeolites of silver or metal or without silver, cyclodextrins and their derivatives. It can also be chelating agents such as Akzo Nobel DISSOLVINE GL-47-S®, EDTA and DPTA. It may also be polyol glycerin or 1,3-propanediol (ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL marketed by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts); or enzymatic inhibitor such as triethyl citrate; or alum. The deodorant active agents may also be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4' , 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (Triclocarban®) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol ( Farnesol®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts. The deodorant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of about 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total composition, and preferably about 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. Moisture absorbing agents It is also possible to add moisture absorbers such as perlites and preferably expanded perlites. The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more moisture-absorbing agents selected from perlites.
[0028] Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more absorbing agents chosen from expanded perlites. The perlites that can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have as their composition 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiO 2 12.0-15.0% by weight of oxide of aluminum oxide A1203 3.0-5.0% sodium oxide Na2O 3.0-5.0% potassium oxide K2O 0.5-2% iron oxide Fe2O3 0.2-0.7% magnesium oxide MgO 0.5-1.5% calcium oxide CaO 0.05 - 0.15% titanium dioxide TiO2 Perlite is milled, dried and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained called Perlite Ore is gray in color and of the order of 100 μm. Perlite Ore is then expanded (1000 ° C / 2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900 ° C, the water trapped in the structure of the material vaporizes and causes the expansion of the material relative to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles according to the invention can be obtained by the expansion method described in US Pat. No. 5,002,698. Preferably, the perlite particles used will be crushed; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D 50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 μm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 μm. Preferably, the perlite particles used have an uncapped bulk density at 25 ° C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m3 (DIN 53468 standard) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg / m3.
[0029] Preferably, the expanded perlite particles according to the invention have a WET POINT water absorption capacity ranging from 200 to 1500% and preferably from 250 to 800%. The Wet Point is the amount of water that must be added to 1 g of particle to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method derives directly from that of oil application applied to solvents. The measurements are made in the same way via the Wet Point and the Flow Point respectively having the following definition: WET POINT: mass expressed in grams per 100g of product corresponding to obtaining a homogeneous paste during the adding a solvent to a powder.
[0030] FLOW POINT: mass expressed in grams per 100g of product from which the amount of solvent is greater than the capacity of the powder to retain it. This results in obtaining a more or less homogeneous mixture flowing on the glass plate.
[0031] The Wet Point and Flow point are measured according to the following protocol: Protocol for measuring water absorption. 1) Material used Glass plate (25 x 25 mm) Spatula (wooden handle and metal part (15 x 2,7mm) Silk bristle brush Balance 2) Operating mode We put the glass plate on the scale and we weigh 1 g of perlite particles. The beaker containing the solvent and the sampling device are deposited on the scale. The solvent is gradually added to the powder by regularly kneading the assembly (every 3 to 4 drops) using the spatula. The mass of solvent required to obtain the Wet Point is noted. The solvent is added again and the mass is recorded allowing the flow point to be reached. We will perform the average over 3 trials. In particular, the expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names OPTIMAT 1430 OR or OPTIMAT 2550 by the company WORLD MINERALS will be used. 30 Suspension Agents / Gelling Agents The antiperspirant composition according to the invention may also contain one or more agents of suspension and / or one or more gelling agents. Some of them can play both roles at once. Among the agents that can be used as suspension agent and / or as lipophilic gelling agent, there may be mentioned clays, in the form of a powder or in the form of an oily gel; said clays possibly being modified, especially modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites, such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as for example, the product Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (reaction product of hectorite and distearyldimium chloride) sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by Elementis Specialties. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (reaction product of bentonite and of quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride), such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250® by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc. It is also possible to use hydrotalcites, in particular hydrophobic modified hydrotalcites, for example the products sold under the name Gilugel by the company BK Giulini. It is also possible to mention fumed silica optionally treated with hydrophobic surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. According to one particular form of the invention, the suspending or gelling agents may be activated by oils such as propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate.
[0032] The amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for the treatment of perspiration. Propellant As indicated above, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more propellants. The propellant used in the antiperspirant cosmetic composition according to the invention is chosen from dimethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons such as propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and the like. isopentane and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon; among these are the compounds sold by the company Dupont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1,1-difluoroethane sold in particular under the trade name Dymel 152 A® by DUPONT. It is also possible to use as propellant carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air.
[0033] Preferably, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a propellant chosen from volatile hydrocarbons. More preferably, the propellant is selected from isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, pentane and isopentane and mixtures thereof. The weight ratio between the liquid phase and the propellant gas varies in a ratio of 5/95 to 50/50, preferably 10/90 to 40/60, and more preferably 15/85 to 30/70. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: (i) an oily phase comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more volatile oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, one or more antiperspirant active agents chosen from aluminum, one or more water-insoluble film-forming ethylenic polymers and blocks chosen from a poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid) polymer, a random isobornyl acrylate / methacrylate polymer, isobornyl / PEG methacrylate / acrylic acid, ii) one or more propellants. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration, and possibly body odors related to human perspiration, consisting in applying to the surface of the skin an effective amount of the cosmetic composition as described above. The application time of the cosmetic composition on the surface of the skin can vary from 0.5 to (10) seconds, preferably from 1 to 5 seconds.
[0034] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied several times on the surface of the skin. In particular, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention consists in applying to the underarm surface an effective amount of the cosmetic composition as described above.
[0035] The invention also relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration. Another object of the present invention is an aerosol device consisting of a container comprising an aerosol composition as defined above and by means for dispensing said composition. The dispensing means, which forms a portion of the aerosol device, is generally constituted by a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle through which the aerosol composition is vaporized. The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be glass, polymeric material or metal, optionally covered with a layer of protective varnish. The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope. The measurement of the transfer to the garment was carried out according to the protocol described below: Each of the compositions to be studied was deposited on a faux leather article sold under the name Supplale® by the company Idemitsu Technofine which was glued on a smooth sheet of 170 grams. This deposit is carried out by spraying the aerosol for 2 seconds at 20cm from the support. After 24 hours, a black cotton fabric is placed on the faux leather article. A weight of 2 kilograms is then applied to the black fabric so that the fabric impregnates the composition. We go back and forth the weight over the entire length of the film pulling the fabric. The fabric is scanned with a scanner sold under the name Scanner Epson V500 (16-bit gray settings, 600 dpi resolution).
[0036] The gray level of the scans is then analyzed using an image software J which has a gray level ranging from 0 to 255. The higher the gray level value, the larger the traces. We therefore try to obtain the lowest possible gray level values. The evaluation of the transfer is also done by observation of the residual deposit on the synthetic leather plate: - The outfit is considered very good when the deposit is unchanged after passage of the fabric - It is considered good when the deposit is visible after passage of the fabric - It is considered bad when the deposit is no longer (or very slightly) visible after passing the fabric.
[0037] EXAMPLES Example 1 1. Formulation The formulas tested in aerosol form comprise a juice made according to the method described below and containing the ingredients mentioned in the following table: Phase Ingredients Juice Juice Comparative Invention Example 1 C1 A Palmitate 4,29 12, 29 Isopropyl A Isododecane 32 40 A Copolymer acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate (50% in isododecane) (c) 16 - B disteardimonium 2,6 2,6 hectorite (4) C Propylene 0.78 0.78 carbonate (5) D Hydrochloride aluminum (2) D Perlite (3) 1.33 1.33 E Perfume 8 8 (1) sold under the trade name Mexomere PAS by Chimex (2) sold under the trade name Reach 103 by the company Summitreheis (3) sold under the trade name Optimat 2550 OR by the company World Minerals (4) sold under the trade name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis (5) sold under the name commercial name Jeffsol propylene carbona by the company Huntsman Phase A is mixed with stirring. Phase (B) is slowly introduced into phase (A) and then allowed to swell for five minutes.
[0038] We introduce (C). Stir strongly until good homogenization. Aluminum chlorohydrate and perlite are then slowly added. Stirring is continued to obtain a good homogenization. The perfume is then added. The bases thus formulated are packaged in drums and a propellant is added to the above preparations according to the following schemes: Comparative Invention Example 1 Cl Juice 15 - Ex 1 Juice - 15 Cl Isobutane 85 85 2. Result on anti-efficacy The aerosol Example 1 is sprayed under the conditions described above and the results obtained compared to the aerosol without MEXOMERE PAS ® are described in the table below: Composition Composition Example 1 Comparative Cl Gray level of the fabric 49, 0 ± 2.2 72.8 ± 4.8 Holding the deposition on synthetic leather good Bad It is found that the composition of Example 1 (49.0) leaves less white traces on fabric, and provides a more remanent deposit that the composition Cl (72.8) does not contain the polymer sold under the trade name Mexomère PAS. Example 2 1. Formulation (containing a higher concentration of aluminum chlorohydrate) Formulas tested in aerosol form comprise a juice made according to the method described below and containing the ingredients mentioned in the following table: Phase Ingredients Juice Juice Invention Comparative Example 2 C2 A Palmitate 10.88 15.88 isopropyl A Isododecane 24.74 29.74 A Copolymer acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate (50% in isododecane) (1) 10 - B Disteardimonium 2,6 2,6 hectorite (4) C Propylene carbonate (5) 0,78 0,78 D Hydrochloride 50 50 aluminum (2) D Perlite (3) 1 1 (1) sold under the name Mexomere PAS sold by the company Chimex (2) sold under the trade name Reach 103 by the company Summitreheis (3) sold under the trade name Optimat 2550 OR by the company World Minerals (4) sold under the trade name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis (5) sold under the commercial appointment Jeffsol propylene carbonate Huntsman Phase A is mixed with stirring. Phase (B) is slowly introduced into phase (A) and then allowed to swell for five minutes. We introduce (C). Stir strongly until good homogenization. Aluminum chlorhydrate and perlite are added gradually in the form of fine rain. Stirring is continued to obtain a good homogenization. The juices (or base) thus formulated are packaged in cans and a propellant is added to the above preparations according to the following schemes: Comparative Invention Example 2 C2 Juice 20 - Ex 2 Juice - 20 C2 Isobutane 80 80 2. Result on the anti-transfer efficiency The aerosol example 2 is sprayed under the conditions described above and the results obtained with respect to the aerosol without MEXOMERE PAS are described in the table below: Invention Example 2 Comparative C2 Grayscale 53, 7 ± 0.4 84.4 ± 1.6 Holding the deposit on synthetic leather Good Bad It is found that the composition Example 2 (53,7) leaves less white traces on fabric and provides a deposit more remanent than the composition Cl (84,4) not containing the polymer sold under the trade name Mexomère PAS. 3. Antiperspirant efficacy Underarm evaluation is carried out on a panel of 32 subjects, during 4 days according to the protocol described below: - Wash-out period of 21 days, without AT antiperspirant, with soap - 1 treated armpit versus 1 untreated armpit - 4 controlled applications: 1 application per day, - Quantity applied to each application: 1.2 +/- 0.05 g sprayed at 15 cm from the armpit - Gravimetric evaluation of the amount of sweat at T = 0 then 24 hours after the 4th application and 48 hours after the 4th application. - Measurement conditions: Sweating in a sauna at 38 ° C and relative humidity (RH) = 30 to 40% Sweating time: 1H20 (heating period: 40 minutes then 2 periods of 20 minutes of collection) Antiperspirant efficacy measured in Example 2 is 30% after 24 hours and 25% after 48 hours.
[0039] Example 3: Formulation Formulas tested in aerosol form comprise a juice (or base) made according to the method described below and containing the ingredients mentioned in the following table: Phase Ingredients Juice Juice Comparative Invention Example 3 C3 A Dimethicone (1) 11% relative to oils Dimethicone (1) 5.75 7.84 Percentage based on total composition A Isododecane 38.54 36.45 A Copolymer acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / acrylate isobornyl (50% in isododecane) (2) 16 16 B Disteardimonium 2.6 2.6 hectorite (5) C Propylene 0.78 0.78 carbonate (6) D Hydrochloride 35 35 aluminum (3) D Perlite (4) 1.33 1.33 (1) sold under the trade name Belsil DM 10 by the company Wacker (2) sold under the trade name Mexomere PAS by the company Chimex (3) sold under the trade name Reach 103 by the company Summitreheis (4) sold under the trade name Optimat 2550 OR by a World Minerals company (5) sold under the trade name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis (6) sold under the trade name Jeffsol propylene carbonate by the company Huntsman Phase A is mixed with stirring. Phase (B) is slowly introduced into phase (A) and then allowed to swell for five minutes. We introduce (C). Stir strongly until good homogenization. Aluminum chlorohydrate and perlite are then slowly added. Stirring is continued to obtain a good homogenization.
[0040] The thus formulated juices are packaged in cans and a propellant is added to the above preparations according to the following schemes: Comparative Invention C3 Example 3 Juice 15 - Example 3 Juice - Comparative C3 Isobutane 85 85 2. Formulation Results Comparative Invention C3 Example 3 Juice Smooth opaque juice Homogeneous mixture impossible, formation of a gum Aerosol Achievable Achievement impossible 3. Result on the anti-transfer efficiency The aerosol Example 3 is sprayed under the conditions described above and the results obtained are described in the table below: Invention Example 3 Gray level on fabric 49.2 ± 2.2 Holding the deposit on artificial leather Good 10
权利要求:
Claims (16)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. Anhydrous composition in the form of an aerosol containing: i) an oily phase comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: one or more volatile oils, one or more antiperspirant active agents chosen from aluminum and / or zirconium salts, and one or more non-water-soluble, film-forming film-forming ethylenic polymers comprising a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 85 ° C. and a second block having a (Tg) of less than or equal to 20 ° C., and ii) one or more propellants; said oily phase containing less than 15% by weight, and even more preferably, less than 12% by weight of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane based on the total weight of the oils.
[0002]
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aluminum salts are chosen from aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex PEG, aluminum chlorohydrex PG, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum dichlorohydrex PG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PEG, sesquichlorohydrex aluminum PG, alum salts, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate , aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.
[0003]
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that said first and second sequences are interconnected by an intermediate segment comprising at least one constituent monomer of said first block and at least one constituent monomer of said second sequence.
[0004]
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C, comprises at least one monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C selected from the following monomers, only or in a mixture: methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COORi in which R1 represents a methyl or tert-butyl group; or a C6-C12 cycloalkyl group; acrylates of formula CH 2 CHCH-COOR 2 in which R 2 represents a C 6 to C 12 cycloalkyl group, or a tert-butyl group; the (meth) acrylamides of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -CONR7R8 or CH2 = CH-CONR7R8, in which R7 and R8, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or isopropyl group; or R7 is H and R8 is a branched C3-C5 group; styrene and its derivatives, such as chlorostyrene.
[0005]
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C, comprises at least one monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 85 ° C selected from methyl methacrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, isobornyl (meth) acrylate and mixtures thereof.
[0006]
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sequence having a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C, comprises at least one monomer of Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C selected from the following monomers, only or in a mixture: acrylates of formula CH 2 = CHCOOR 3, with R 3 representing a linear or branched C 1 to C 12 alkyl group, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which is (are) optionally inserted (s) one or a plurality of heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, said alkyl group being further optionally substituted with one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms; the methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR4, with R4 representing a linear or branched C6-C18 alkyl group, in which is (are) optionally intercalated one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N and S, said alkyl group being further optionally substituted with one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms; vinyl esters of formula R5-00-0-CH = CH2 where R5 represents a linear or branched C4-C12 alkyl group; vinyl ethers and C4 to C12 alkyl; - C4 to C12 N-alkyl acrylamides; - The monomers of formula (I) below, alone or in a mixture R1 I-12C = C (Z). (R 2) 7 (CH 2 CH 2 O), TR 3 in which: R 1 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Z is a divalent group selected from -000-, -CONH-, -CONCH3-, -000-, -O-, -SO2- -00-0-00- or -CO-CH2-00-; - x is 0 or 1; - R2 is a divalent carbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 18 heteroatoms selected from 0, N, S, F, Si and P; m is 0 or 1; n is an integer between 3 and 300 inclusive; - R3 is a hydrogen atom or a carbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 20 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P.
[0007]
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sequence having a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C, comprises at least one monomer of lower Tg or (I) equal to 20 ° C selected from acrylates alkyl having an alkyl chain of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, with the exception of tert-butyl, such as methyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, ethyl-2-acrylate, hexyl; as well as the (meth) acrylates of poly (ethylene glycol) and the (meth) acrylates of alkyl-poly (ethylene glycol), more particularly the methacrylates of methyl-poly (ethylene glycol); and their mixtures.
[0008]
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-water-soluble film-forming ethylenic polymer is selected from: - a polymer of poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate / acid acrylic), - a random isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / PEG methacrylate / acrylic acid polymer and more particularly a poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid) polymer .
[0009]
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the propellant is chosen from dimethyl ether and volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isopropane and n-butane. isobutane, pentane and isopentane and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon.
[0010]
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the liquid phase and the propellant varies in a ratio of 5/95 to 50/50, preferably 10/90 to 40/50. 60, and more preferably from 15/85 to 30/70.
[0011]
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil is chosen from volatile C8-C16 hydrocarbon oils, preferably from C8-C16 isoalkanes and linear C8-C16 alkanes and their mixtures.
[0012]
12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.
[0013]
13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the proportion of volatile oil (s) varies from 50% to 100% by weight relative to the total amount of oil (s). .
[0014]
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more moisture absorbers chosen from perlites, in particular expanded perlites.
[0015]
15. Process for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration, and possibly human body odors related to human perspiration, consisting in applying to the surface of the skin an effective quantity of the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 14. .
[0016]
16. An aerosol device consisting of a container comprising an aerosol composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 and by means for dispensing said aerosol composition.
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日
US20170007510A1|2017-01-12|
RU2016129364A|2018-01-24|
US10350149B2|2019-07-16|
RU2705726C1|2019-11-11|
ES2688897T3|2018-11-07|
FR3015260B1|2018-08-31|
MX357465B|2018-07-11|
BR112016014355B1|2020-11-17|
MX2016007470A|2016-08-03|
EP3082720B1|2018-07-25|
WO2015091742A1|2015-06-25|
EP3082720A1|2016-10-26|
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法律状态:
2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
2018-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
2020-10-16| ST| Notification of lapse|Effective date: 20200910 |
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
FR1363008|2013-12-19|
FR1363008A|FR3015260B1|2013-12-19|2013-12-19|ANTI-TRANSPARENT ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AEROSOL COMPRISING AN ANTI-TRANSPARENT ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND A NON-WATER-SOLUBLE FILMOGENIC ETHYLENE POLYMER AND SEQUENCE|FR1363008A| FR3015260B1|2013-12-19|2013-12-19|ANTI-TRANSPARENT ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AEROSOL COMPRISING AN ANTI-TRANSPARENT ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND A NON-WATER-SOLUBLE FILMOGENIC ETHYLENE POLYMER AND SEQUENCE|
MX2016007470A| MX357465B|2013-12-19|2014-12-18|Anhydrous antiperspirant composition in aerosol form comprising an antiperspirant active agent and a water-insoluble film-forming block ethylenic polymer.|
ES14821145.1T| ES2688897T3|2013-12-19|2014-12-18|Anhydrous aerosol antiperspirant composition comprising an active antiperspirant agent and a water-insoluble film forming block ethylenic polymer|
US15/105,653| US10350149B2|2013-12-19|2014-12-18|Anhydrous antiperspirant composition in aerosol form comprising an antiperspirant active agent and a water-insoluble film-forming block ethylenic polymer|
RU2016129364A| RU2705726C1|2013-12-19|2014-12-18|Anhydrous antiperspirant composition in aerosol form containing antiperspirant active and water-insoluble film-forming ethylene block-copolymer|
PCT/EP2014/078385| WO2015091742A1|2013-12-19|2014-12-18|Anhydrous antiperspirant composition in aerosol form comprising an antiperspirant active agent and a water-insoluble film-forming block ethylenic polymer|
BR112016014355-8A| BR112016014355B1|2013-12-19|2014-12-18|anhydrous aerosol antiperspirant composition comprising an antiperspirant active agent and a water-insoluble, film-forming block ethylene polymer|
EP14821145.1A| EP3082720B1|2013-12-19|2014-12-18|Anhydrous antiperspirant composition in aerosol form comprising an antiperspirant active agent and a water-insoluble film-forming block ethylenic polymer|
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